About 5 hours before you plan to bake your pizza, remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it come to a cool room temperature (~65ºF/18ºC), about an hour.

Meanwhile, pour 40 grams (1/4 cup) olive oil into your black steel Sicilian pan, and spread it around, into corners and up sides of pan.

If dough is in sheet pan, remove lid or plastic and turn sheet pan of dough upside-down over the Sicilian pan. Hopefully the dough will slowly release and drop into the Sicilian pan. If not, use a bench scraper to gently pry it out.

When dough is in oiled Sicilian pan, flip it over to coat it on all sides with oil—trying to maintain rectangular shape the entire time. Press it out as evenly as possible into the corners of the pan.

If the dough is snapping back, let it rest 10–15 minutes and try again. The point of cold-fermenting it in the sheet pan is to give you a head start on making a nice, easy, extensible rectangle shape.

Temperature plays a role in ease of stretching, too. Cold dough is very hard to stretch and shape. Hence the warm-up in the sheet pan before transfer to the Sicilian pan.

Let the dough rise in the pan until it's near double in bulk—it will be near the rim. Pay attention the first 30–45 minutes to see if it's receding from the edges. If it is, gently stretch it out as much as you can without handling it so much or so roughly that you de-gas the dough.

When dough is near the top of the rim, sprinkle it with half the grated cheese, going heavy with it around the edges. This isn't a Detroit-style pizza, but I like a nice Parm-y edge.

Lay sliced mozzarella atop dough, covering dough in its entirety but for 1/4" around the edge. (This isn't a Detroit-style pizza, after all.) I like to double-layer a few extra slices on for extra cheesiness here and there.

Spoon sauce on and use the back of a large spoon or ladle to spread it around. (I actually use an Asian soup spoon; its flat bottom is great for this purpose.) Sprinkle on the remaining half of the Parm/Romano.

Place your panned-up pizza directly on the Baking Steel, and bake until dough edges are dark brown and pulling away from pan edges, 10–12 minutes, rotating halfway through.

Remove pizza from oven and, using a spatula (or two), pry it from the pan and transfer it to the half-sheet and cooling rack.

Allow to cool a few minutes and slice.

Optional: Swirl on some olive oil, sprinkle on oregano, scissor on some fresh basil, and grate some fresh grana padano over it.